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ReyesAccordions.com > Forums > General Discussion about music (read community guidelines before you post) > HANDMADE REEDS
 
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    02/09/07 at 06:41 PM#1

Hola a todos. Se ha dado mucha importancia ultimamente las handmade reeds y toda la cosa. Mi pregunta es esta, como sabemos nosotros por ejemplo como consumidor como reconocer si deveras algo trae handmade reeds y algo que no. Lo digo por que yo he calado acordeones que segun son handmade reeds una de 2 tonos como la mia, digo esto para que no se diga o use el tamano de la acordeon como punto de referencia en lo que respecta a sonido y la mera neta no note la diferencia. A lo que voy es a esto. Como saber? Como saber si no se te esta dando gato por liebre? Un vendedor sin escrupulos que basandose a la seccion de reviews existen 2 que 3 por ahi te pudieran decir que son handmade y ahi esta uno bien volado y resulta que son factorymade. Hay alguna manera de determinar otra que la palabra de alguien para saber si son handmade?  ahi se los dejo de tarea raza.

E-z
aguila853

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    02/11/07 at 03:53 AM#2

Yo tambien he pensado lo mismo que tu eazy.  Porque como dices tu, a la mejor el vendedor anda diciendo que los acordeones tienen handmade reeds,  pero la verdad son echas en fabrica.  Alguien del foro sabe algo sobre esto?
Karlitos_Way

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    02/11/07 at 09:04 PM#3

The following are a series of pictures I took of reed block #3 from a Hohner Corona II in FA with commercial reeds and reed block #3 from a Dino Baffetti Tex-Mex II in FA with handmade reeds.  This is just to illustrate the visual differences.  The audible differences are that handmade reeds are louder and increase in volume after their 6-8 month breaking-in process, they hold their intonation longer, they break less often.


 


Hohner Corona II:



 


Dino Baffetti Tex-Mex II:



 


Hohner Corona II: Notice the waffle textured nail at the bottom of the steel tongue.  Also, notice the silver edge at the base of the tongue by the blue area.


 


Dino Baffetti Tex-Mex II: Notice the diamond shaped nail head on the steel tongue.  Also, notice the blue edge at the base of the steel tongue



 


 


 



 



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    02/11/07 at 11:15 PM#4

Hey Karlitos, kool pics, i was told that factory reeds are cut out of a plate of steel thats beveled already and they cut a whole bunch of reeds and then just fine tune it get the most out of the plate and produce more reeds and faster thats why at the base you will see the silver edge, as opposed to a handmade reed that typically is cut out of a narrower strip of steel and beveled by hand, this guy also held the block to the light and you could see  almost a curved reflection of the light as you moved your the block on the handmade reeds as opposed to a flat straight reflection as you moved the block on the factory reeds. Is that a close way to see that you do have handmade reeds?

E-z

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    02/15/07 at 12:38 PM#5

Karlos,

 

For some unknown reason, I can't see the pictures.  


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    02/15/07 at 01:31 PM#6

What web browser do you have?





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aguila853

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    02/15/07 at 01:41 PM#7

Thanks for the info karlos, by the way, what are the little paper like things attached to the reeds and why do the first three reeds on each block not have them?????
otono

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    02/15/07 at 09:43 PM#8

Those are the valve covers. They are both sides of most of the reeds and they keep air from passing through both reeds at once, and restrict the air flow to only one reed at a time. On the smaller reeds they are not necessary as the air flow (in the opposite direction) cannot move the reed on the other side. Air needs to push the reed toward the block for smaller reeds to sound because of the small amount of movement when they vibrate (sound).

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aguila853

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    02/15/07 at 10:51 PM#9

Otoño, thanks for the info.  By the way is there anything I can put on the reeds other than those valve covers.  Because some of the reeds in my accordion had those valve covers bent, and it made the note sound kind of weird so I took the valve covers off and I didn't know they were going to do anything to the note, but now the notes doesn't sound that good.  So I was wondering if I could put anything else to cover the valves.  Any info would be appreciated.
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    02/15/07 at 11:07 PM#10

Great info Karlos. We really appreciate it. Thank you too Otono for your info. I just learned something new today. As for the valve covers you can try the same kind of plastic or I have seen some people put thin strips of leather. I dont know if its right or which one works best.


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    02/15/07 at 11:18 PM#11

Thanks agmcaballero for the info, and where can I get the same kind of plastic? 
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    02/15/07 at 11:35 PM#12

Maybe if there is tuner or repair shop in your area they might have some. Or you can try like a fabrick store or something.


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    02/15/07 at 11:38 PM#13

Alright agmcaballero, thanks for the reply.  I guess I have to go hunting for a plastic similar to the ones on the accordion reeds since there are no repair shops around here.  Well thanks again, it was helpful.
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    02/15/07 at 11:45 PM#14

I had seen a friend once have a cheap $30 chinese piano accordion and he took them off of that. The plastic seemed to be the same and it worked well when he was done. Or you can try those thin pieces of leather. You know I think I even seen someone use the cassette tape for that too. Man there are a few possibilities. Try them and see what works best.


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    02/15/07 at 11:55 PM#15

Now that you mention it agmcaballero, I also have a piano accordion lying around somewhere I'll see if I can use those.  Again thanks for the info.  I probably wouldn't have thought of looking inside the paino accordion for those plastic things.  And do you know what I can use to glue or stick them to the reeds again???????


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    02/16/07 at 12:01 AM#16

Maybe some elmers glue.


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    02/16/07 at 12:03 AM#17

Thanks a million for all your help. I probably wouldn't have known how to fix that problem.
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    02/16/07 at 12:05 AM#18

Here's a link that has the leather covers.

 

http://www.hmtrad.com/catalog/winds/sbx/sbx-part.html#bellows

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Jesus

 


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    02/16/07 at 12:12 AM#19

Hey thanks jgalla. That is a very interesting site. how did you find it?


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    02/16/07 at 12:18 AM#20

Thanks jesus for the website it looks very interesting, it has a lot of things for the accordion, even though I don't know what most of them are used for.
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    02/16/07 at 12:37 AM#21

Thanks guys,  I found this site and a lot more like it cause I'm on a mission to build my own box.  I'll be starting the project really soon.  I'll post some pictures on this site as I progress.

 

Take care.

 

Jesus


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    02/16/07 at 01:02 AM#22

Good luck on your build bro!! Look forward to seeing your finished product. Never quit!!


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    02/16/07 at 08:39 AM#23

Sam Shublom sells ventilli in plastic and leather form.  You can find him at:

 

http://www.geocities.com/shublom/supplies.html

 

-Karlos

 

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    02/16/07 at 10:23 AM#24

I would recommend spending a little money to buy some valve covers (leather or plastic), rather than recycle ones off another box, unless that's your only option. You have to be careful when removing them that you don't bend or crimp them. If they can't lay flat against the reed blocks, they either won't work or will be less effective. Another tip: try slicing off a valve cover off a larger reed (above the adhesive), instead of pulling or scra.ping it off (i couldn't post this word spelled normally). You're less likely to do damage to it and you can always cut it down to size, if necessary.

For an adhesive, I've used shellac. It was recommended to me at one point and it's always done well. Drys clear and super strong. I'm interested to hear what others use that's worked for them.

Plastic valve covers or ventilli (thank you Karlos) is sometimes preferable over leather for its relatively faster response time. Leather has a softer "slap back" sound than plastic. Leather is also heavier and you'll notice that they're sometimes supported by a thin metal strip (particularly on the larger reeds).

There are other solutions that will work, but those are the "tried and true" solutions. In a pinch, I've made ones out of paper until I could replace them with the good stuff.

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    02/16/07 at 10:42 AM#25

Thanks Otono for a better more professional tip. Its good to know other options that are available that might be better.


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